Thursday, 27 April 2017

Capturing The Scent Of War + Facebook Live Reminder!


I imagined I was walking in a town, partly destroyed by the war, with some fires burning, but maybe also still with some trees and some flowers around. And I thought it must be very emotional to walk through your own town if it has been destroyed, with the odours of what reminds you of life and what shows you the effects war.
A few months ago, when I caught up with Jean-Christophe Hérault (Hot Cologne, Cuir Impertinent, Florabotanica) at the London launch of Boucheron's new La Collection range of 'exclusive' scents, we had a fascinating chat about the struggle for originality, the pressures faced by young perfumers and, most intriguingly, his recent work at the Institut Du Monde Arabe. To read my account of our encounter, please click on this link to Basenotes.

Finally, please try to tune in to my Facebook Live broadcast on Friday 28th April at around midday, UK time - technology permitting! - for the first instalment (should I call it my pilot episode?) of Love At First Scent. To watch it, you'll have to go to the Persolaise page on Facebook (please click here) and 'Like' it. 

Hope to see you then,

Persolaise

Monday, 24 April 2017

Heads Up: Persolaise On Facebook Live Friday 28th April 2017 & In The First Issue Of Tauer Magazine

image: Andy Tauer

The realm of scent is probably the most enigmatic territory in which the Ape and the Angel meet: it somehow manages to be both entirely primal and entirely cerebral. It is a field of creation in which precision, technology and abstract intellect are employed to elicit inexplicable emotions, to grasp at desires, to cast light on shadows of memories.

A few weeks ago, the Zurich-based perfumer Andy Tauer launched the first issue of what he hopes will be a regular customer magazine in which he'll publish thoughts and views on the world of scent-creation. I was very fortunate to be asked to contribute an article to the debut edition, a few lines of which you can read above. The entire magazine is now available online to all, so if you'd like to read it, please click here. I do urge you to take a look at it, not just because I'd love it if you read my piece, but also because of Tauer's own account of a recent trip to Saudi Arabia, which sparked a particularly interesting upcoming release.

Whilst I'm in self-promotion mode, I'd also like to say - with a massive gulp of trepidation - that I'm planning to broadcast a Facebook Live video on this Friday, 28th April 2017, at around 12:00 pm UK time. Of course, the entire scheme could be derailed by dodgy technology, or a nasty cold or a whole host of other, unexpected developments. But all being well, I shall be in front of my camera on Friday, for the first episode of a new venture I'm calling Love At First Scent. The video will be broadcast through my Persolaise Perfumes page, so if you don't already know where it is, please click here. I do hope you'll be able to join me on Friday!

Persolaise

Friday, 21 April 2017

Perfume Mini-Reviews From Twitter: January to March 2017 [part 1]


Here's a new Twitter mini-review round-up, this time covering the first three months of 2017.

Colonia Quercia from Acqua Di Parma (2016)*
Brave trying to do a mossy note. Linked with fruit-citrus aspects, it works well. Rather burly & saturnine.

Blossom Love from Amouage (2017)*
Hard-headed florals & mosses. Tough to find the love here. An unyielding quality at odds with the idea of blossoms.

Lilac Love from Amouage (2016)*
Confident retro chypre, with greens, lilacs, rose, patchouli & cacao. Maybe touch too loud, but likeable nonetheless.

Roaring Radcliff from Penhaligon's (Daphné Bugey; 2016)*
Promising, dry, earthy tobacco, linked with rose and cool spices. A pleasing combo, but fades too quickly.

Thursday, 13 April 2017

Persolaise Sixty Second Scents - Eau Des Merveilles Bleue from Hermès (Christine Nagel; 2017)


Another Sixty Second Scents video review for you: Christine Nagel's Eau Des Merveilles Bleue for Hermès... complete with painful French pronunciation.

To view the video on the YouTube site, please click here.

Finally, to everyone celebrating Easter this weekend: may your feasting know no limits! Chocolate. Cakes. Sweets. Enjoy them all!

Persolaise

Friday, 7 April 2017

Persolaise Review: Pour Homme Parfum from Bottega Veneta (Daniela Andrier & Antoine Maisondieu; 2017)


I can't help but envy Italian men their sense of style. Yes, I know I'm making a generalisation as broad as the shoulders of Michelangelo's David, but spend a few minutes sipping an espresso in Verona and you start to believe that every single guy in the country is born reading a good grooming manual. Those bright red moccasins. The silk pocket square. A tangle of leather bracelets. Precision-cut facial hair. The pale yellow Lacoste jumper draped over a polo shirt. It's all so deliciously sprezzatura. This very particular masculine aesthetic - part nonchalant bear, part predatory tiger - has in recent years found expression in Daniela Andrier and Antoine Maisondieu's Pour Homme scents from Bottega Veneta. And although the initial version veered just a tiny bit too close to cardboard-cutout territory, its flankers have been more impressive, leaning away from the pseudo-citrus notes towards the leathers and the spices. That trend continues in this new 'Parfum' iteration (despite its name, it's an eau de parfum) which sees the tannery-centred base notes cling even closer to the wearer's skin. The trademark pine inflection is still present, but in this case, the sun has long set behind the trees, forcing one's gaze to pick out details in the dark: the undergrowth, the dying embers, the resinous vegetation releasing its scent into the sky. The effect is convincingly nocturnal, yet resolutely modern and urban... proving that even when he's shed the day clothes and slipped into his sleeping gear, our Italian gent never sacrifices the need for a high-quality fabric and some fine stitching

[Review based on a sample of eau de parfum provided by Bottega Veneta in 2017.]

Persolaise

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